We were up early to breakfast and pack the van to be ready to catch the 9.10am ferry towards Narvik on our way to Tromso.
We made the ferry with time to spare (we were one of only two cars on it) and as it was just starting to get light we took the opportunity to pop out on deck and take some photos across the fjord.
Soon we were on our way again. We expected the journey to take about five or six hours overall as the roads wound themselves around the edges of the fjords.
We stopped in a few places to take photos, one where we tried to catch the moon as it sank behind the mountains and we caught a lovely sunset later on.
Most of Norway is shut on a Sunday so it was difficult to find anywhere to eat, other than snacks from petrol stations although we did find a hotel who let us serve ourselves from their breakfast coffee machine. At one toilet stop, the side door of the minibus wouldn't open for some reason, so Alicea had to climb over the seats and bags to get out of the back door (the door started working again as soon as we drove off!) and at another Mark stepped out of the minibus only to disappear from view as he immediately slipped over on the ice.
The rest of the journey was uneventful with Mark and Rob sharing the driving as the rest of us dozed or stared at the sky noticing how the clouds that had been present for all the week so far had disappeared and that we could now see the stars. The outside temperature, at one point dropped to -11C. Fingers crossed for tonight!
We arrived in Tromso and mark took the minibus back to Hertz while the rest of us went up to our rooms. Shortly after we met up to wander into the town looking for somewhere to eat. We popped into a pub that served lots of different beers but although Mark was quite taken with it, the rest of us decided to find somewhere with a bit more of a choice. We then discovered a pub/café on the corner or the main street that had what looked like quite a nice menu. It was called the Meieriet café and storpub and we ordered a range of food from vegetable stir frys thru chicken burgers to veggie burgers.
Around now, Alicea mentioned seeing a notice for a trip out to see the Northern Lights. With the street lights in Tromso, it would be difficult to see them, so this trip took you out of town to where it was darker.
While we waited for the food to be delivered, Caroline went to a hotel across the road to see if she could find any details. She reappeared to tell us that the trip left in 45 minutes and cost about £45. We decided that this would probably be our best chance of seeing the Lights and checked to make sure our food would arrive in time. It did, and it was really tasty too.
We then made our way to where the coach would pick is up. Rob and Steve quickly went back to the hotel to pick up warm clothes and their cameras and then we boarded the coach and were off, keeping our fingers crossed that the Lights would appear.
The journey took about thirty minutes during which we travelled through a tunnel complex that included a couple of junctions with roundabouts!
Eventually we arrived at the wilderness centre outside the town to be greeted by baying huskies (this is where they run the sled rides from - we had tried to book, but they werebly running them as they hadn't had enough snow).
We were then shown into one of the Sammi huts that had a raging fire in it and given coffee. Then we were given warm one piece suits and boots and we went and sat outside to stare at the sky. It was really cold, but the suits kept us warm.
The night was beautiful, the sky was clear, the odd shooting star streaked across the sky and we were all keeping our fingers crossed beneath our thick gloves that the Northern Lights would appear.
Then a dim grey band began to appear across the sky, gradually getting brighter. At first I thought it was some kind of reflection of the lights from the town in the distance. But no, this was the beginning of the Aurora Borealis, the Northern Lights!
The band got brighter and took on a very light greenish hue. Sometimes it appeared as though it was hanging sheets, other times like grey/green clouds. I fiddled with my camera to try and get some photos of the phenomenom. Eventually, I got some really nice ones. The Lights went on for about an hour, occasionally changing shape and getting brighter and dimmer throughout.
Eventually it was time to return, so we handed back the warm clothes, all of us delighted that everything that we had planned for the holiday - the whales, snorkelling and the Northern Lights had all been successful.
Monday, December 31, 2007
Saturday, December 29, 2007
Up Close & Personal
We had another boat trip today, put on the smaller boat called the Zodiac. The highlight was to be the chance to snorkel with the whales if the conditions were right.
Last night there had been a few reservations about whether to go on the trip from a few people and Steve and Caroline had decided not to go after the really choppy conditions yesterday. On the way back to the room however, a conversation with one of the receptionists had changed her mind. Steve decided that he would rather have a "duvet day".
We met for breakfast and then made our way to be shoehorned into our drysuits. Getting your head in was the worst bit as the rubber seal around the neck was really tight.
That done, we were taken to the docks and boarded the boat, which was an open dingy type vessel that could carry about twenty.
The first thing we saw was a sea eagle that swooped down from about 250m to gather a fish that had been thrown from the boat. It was magnificent, so majestic and graceful. I could have gone home happy then. But no, our job was to find killer whales, and to jump in the water with them!
Next, we saw a grey seal - a rarity for these parts, apparently.
Then, shortly after, Rolf, the boat's captain announced that Orca were ahead and masks and snorkels were handed out.
The boat came closer to the pod, consisting of several adults and one or two younger ones and the call came to get into the water.
It wasn't as cold as I expected and I saw a flash of white below me for a second which may or may not have been a whale. We were helped back on the boat and there were tales of mixed success.
The boat followed the whales and once close enough, in we went again.
I saw nothing, and got out to be told that one had been right behind me!
Off we went again until we came upon more. This was certainly more successful than yesterday and we were so close to the whales that you got a real feel for their elegance and grace as they swam through the water.
The shout went up again to go into the water.
This time I had the fortune of being able to see three Orca as they swam past me and disappeared into the gloomy distance. I was elated! They were so graceful as they glided past me. Fantastic!
This pattern continued and at one point we were surrounded by whales. One surfaced near the boat and those in the water at that time said that as it dived beneath the boat it turned over on its back.
One time I was in the water I had a whale swimming beneath me for what seemed like ages. Unfortunately someone close to me knocked my snorkel out, forcing me to surface.
Interspersed with the whales, we got to see more sea eagles dive towards the water, picking off fish. All in all, the whole morning was superb.
The drysuits did their job and were incredibly bouyant, so much so that it was sometimes difficult to manouvre. They were also surprisingly warm and I was much warmer than I was yesterday.
Finally, it all had to end and the boat sped back to the dock. Once there a group of us decided that one further dip was required and we leapt from the dock into the water! This time, it was cold but very refreshing. Then it was back to the centre to be pulled out of the suits and to have a cup of coffee.
We then had a rest before meeting up for a chat and a drink, then a further rest before meeting up for dinner and viewing todays video before retiring for the evening.
Last night there had been a few reservations about whether to go on the trip from a few people and Steve and Caroline had decided not to go after the really choppy conditions yesterday. On the way back to the room however, a conversation with one of the receptionists had changed her mind. Steve decided that he would rather have a "duvet day".
We met for breakfast and then made our way to be shoehorned into our drysuits. Getting your head in was the worst bit as the rubber seal around the neck was really tight.
That done, we were taken to the docks and boarded the boat, which was an open dingy type vessel that could carry about twenty.
The first thing we saw was a sea eagle that swooped down from about 250m to gather a fish that had been thrown from the boat. It was magnificent, so majestic and graceful. I could have gone home happy then. But no, our job was to find killer whales, and to jump in the water with them!
Next, we saw a grey seal - a rarity for these parts, apparently.
Then, shortly after, Rolf, the boat's captain announced that Orca were ahead and masks and snorkels were handed out.
The boat came closer to the pod, consisting of several adults and one or two younger ones and the call came to get into the water.
It wasn't as cold as I expected and I saw a flash of white below me for a second which may or may not have been a whale. We were helped back on the boat and there were tales of mixed success.
The boat followed the whales and once close enough, in we went again.
I saw nothing, and got out to be told that one had been right behind me!
Off we went again until we came upon more. This was certainly more successful than yesterday and we were so close to the whales that you got a real feel for their elegance and grace as they swam through the water.
The shout went up again to go into the water.
This time I had the fortune of being able to see three Orca as they swam past me and disappeared into the gloomy distance. I was elated! They were so graceful as they glided past me. Fantastic!
This pattern continued and at one point we were surrounded by whales. One surfaced near the boat and those in the water at that time said that as it dived beneath the boat it turned over on its back.
One time I was in the water I had a whale swimming beneath me for what seemed like ages. Unfortunately someone close to me knocked my snorkel out, forcing me to surface.
Interspersed with the whales, we got to see more sea eagles dive towards the water, picking off fish. All in all, the whole morning was superb.
The drysuits did their job and were incredibly bouyant, so much so that it was sometimes difficult to manouvre. They were also surprisingly warm and I was much warmer than I was yesterday.
Finally, it all had to end and the boat sped back to the dock. Once there a group of us decided that one further dip was required and we leapt from the dock into the water! This time, it was cold but very refreshing. Then it was back to the centre to be pulled out of the suits and to have a cup of coffee.
We then had a rest before meeting up for a chat and a drink, then a further rest before meeting up for dinner and viewing todays video before retiring for the evening.
Friday, December 28, 2007
Thar She Blows!
Woke early to breakfast at 7.30am to be ready for our day out on the boat to search for Orcas (Killer Whales)
After breakfast we had a short lecture on the wildlife of the area and the Orca themselves. They come to this area to feed on the herring that swim into the fjords this time of the year. However, over the last couple of years, not so many of the herring have been coming into the fjord, preferring to stay outside, so not so many of the Orca are around in the local vicinity.
After the lecture we boarded a coach to the quayside and then the boat and headed out into the fjord. Each of us clothed with several layers topped with waterproofs.
It was very windy and cold and once we were out into the fjord the boat rocked around quite a lot. I stayed outside in an effort to stave off seasickness, which partly worked. During the really choppy bits I felt quite queasy.
Around lunchtime we were told that one of the other boats had spotted a pod of whales and we headed in that direction. Suddenly there they were, swimming quite fast a few hundred feet from the boat. The boat followed for a while until they disappeared into the distance. Then the boat headed for home arriving back as it got dark - about 2pm!
Once back at the centre we rested for a couple of hours before meeting up to have some food and play cards for a couple of hours.
After that we watched the video footage taken from the various boats during the day's excursions before retiring for the night.
Tomorrow we're going out on the smaller boat that can get closer to the whales. The wind is forecast to be less than today, so hopefully it won't be so choppy.
After breakfast we had a short lecture on the wildlife of the area and the Orca themselves. They come to this area to feed on the herring that swim into the fjords this time of the year. However, over the last couple of years, not so many of the herring have been coming into the fjord, preferring to stay outside, so not so many of the Orca are around in the local vicinity.
After the lecture we boarded a coach to the quayside and then the boat and headed out into the fjord. Each of us clothed with several layers topped with waterproofs.
It was very windy and cold and once we were out into the fjord the boat rocked around quite a lot. I stayed outside in an effort to stave off seasickness, which partly worked. During the really choppy bits I felt quite queasy.
Around lunchtime we were told that one of the other boats had spotted a pod of whales and we headed in that direction. Suddenly there they were, swimming quite fast a few hundred feet from the boat. The boat followed for a while until they disappeared into the distance. Then the boat headed for home arriving back as it got dark - about 2pm!
Once back at the centre we rested for a couple of hours before meeting up to have some food and play cards for a couple of hours.
After that we watched the video footage taken from the various boats during the day's excursions before retiring for the night.
Tomorrow we're going out on the smaller boat that can get closer to the whales. The wind is forecast to be less than today, so hopefully it won't be so choppy.
North into Darkness
We breakfasted at the hotel and then gathered in the foyer to make our way back to the train station so we could catch the train to the airport.
Once at the airport we checked in - Mark and Alicea had their fingerprints taken to use as boarding cards, the rest of us had "old fashioned" paper ones, not sure why - and we made our way through security to the gate, where the fingers worked and most of the paper didn't in the automatic barriers there.
The flight was pretty much on time and we were soon on our way to Evenes airport, inside the arctic circle.
It was about 3pm and still light when we left Oslo. From the window of the plane you could see a dark band on the horizon that got bigger as we flew closer to it. By the time we landed at around 3.45pm it was as dark as night!
We picked up our bags and then had a 45 minute wait for the car to arrive. Mark had booked a nine seater minibus that fitted us and our luggage perfectly.
Soon we were on our way to the Tourist Centre at Tysfjord where we were staying for the next few days.
As none of us had eaten anything since breakfast we stopped at a restaurant only to find it just closing. At 5.15pm!
We had a ferry to catch at 8pm about an hour's drive away so a decision was taken to drive to the nearest town (about 20 mins away) to find an eatery there. This we did and found pizza place and we made it to the ferry in perfect time.
The ferry journey was about an hour during which we played cards as the ferry rocked back and forth as it carried us across the fjord.
Once on the other side it was a five minute drive to the tourist centre.
The centre is really nice (I'm not sure about the proliferation of stuffed animals around the place) and the room is warm and comfy. The bathroom has underfloor heating, which is great.
After booking in and dropping everything in our rooms we all met in the bar for a drink. We then decided to retire to Steve's room to crack open the duty free. On the way, due to a collision between Rob and myself near the huge stuffed polar bear next to the entrance, I managed to drop my glass which smashed into a thousand pieces. After it was cleared up we met in Steve's room where we played cards (Anna is the current sh@thead) and drank until retiring for bed.
Once at the airport we checked in - Mark and Alicea had their fingerprints taken to use as boarding cards, the rest of us had "old fashioned" paper ones, not sure why - and we made our way through security to the gate, where the fingers worked and most of the paper didn't in the automatic barriers there.
The flight was pretty much on time and we were soon on our way to Evenes airport, inside the arctic circle.
It was about 3pm and still light when we left Oslo. From the window of the plane you could see a dark band on the horizon that got bigger as we flew closer to it. By the time we landed at around 3.45pm it was as dark as night!
We picked up our bags and then had a 45 minute wait for the car to arrive. Mark had booked a nine seater minibus that fitted us and our luggage perfectly.
Soon we were on our way to the Tourist Centre at Tysfjord where we were staying for the next few days.
As none of us had eaten anything since breakfast we stopped at a restaurant only to find it just closing. At 5.15pm!
We had a ferry to catch at 8pm about an hour's drive away so a decision was taken to drive to the nearest town (about 20 mins away) to find an eatery there. This we did and found pizza place and we made it to the ferry in perfect time.
The ferry journey was about an hour during which we played cards as the ferry rocked back and forth as it carried us across the fjord.
Once on the other side it was a five minute drive to the tourist centre.
The centre is really nice (I'm not sure about the proliferation of stuffed animals around the place) and the room is warm and comfy. The bathroom has underfloor heating, which is great.
After booking in and dropping everything in our rooms we all met in the bar for a drink. We then decided to retire to Steve's room to crack open the duty free. On the way, due to a collision between Rob and myself near the huge stuffed polar bear next to the entrance, I managed to drop my glass which smashed into a thousand pieces. After it was cleared up we met in Steve's room where we played cards (Anna is the current sh@thead) and drank until retiring for bed.
Thursday, December 27, 2007
Heading North
We stayed at the Stansted Radisson hotel on Christmas night and popped into Colchester on Boxing Day morning hoping to pick up a few bargains. However, not too many shops were open so we ended up going to Freeport in Braintree instead where we picked up a couple of bits.
Then it was back to the airport to drop the car off and meet the others.
Steve was already there and the others, Rob, Caroline, Mark and Anna turned up a little while after.
We queued for about an hour to check in and by the time we got through security, it was time to board which meant a very quick race through Duty Free to get some booze before heading to the gate.
When we got there we still had to wait for a bit, and eventually we boarded.
The flight was good and, although we took off late, we landed pretty much on time.
Once in the airport in Oslo we looked around for something to eat but everywhere was shut so we caught the train from the airport into Oslo and walked to the hotel.
After booking in, some of us popped to a local garage (the only place open) to get some snacks before retiring to bed.
Regards
Gary Nicklin
Global Professional Services
Please excuse the brevity of this message, it was sent from a BlackBerry.
Then it was back to the airport to drop the car off and meet the others.
Steve was already there and the others, Rob, Caroline, Mark and Anna turned up a little while after.
We queued for about an hour to check in and by the time we got through security, it was time to board which meant a very quick race through Duty Free to get some booze before heading to the gate.
When we got there we still had to wait for a bit, and eventually we boarded.
The flight was good and, although we took off late, we landed pretty much on time.
Once in the airport in Oslo we looked around for something to eat but everywhere was shut so we caught the train from the airport into Oslo and walked to the hotel.
After booking in, some of us popped to a local garage (the only place open) to get some snacks before retiring to bed.
Regards
Gary Nicklin
Global Professional Services
Please excuse the brevity of this message, it was sent from a BlackBerry.
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