We were up early to breakfast and pack the van to be ready to catch the 9.10am ferry towards Narvik on our way to Tromso.
We made the ferry with time to spare (we were one of only two cars on it) and as it was just starting to get light we took the opportunity to pop out on deck and take some photos across the fjord.
Soon we were on our way again. We expected the journey to take about five or six hours overall as the roads wound themselves around the edges of the fjords.
We stopped in a few places to take photos, one where we tried to catch the moon as it sank behind the mountains and we caught a lovely sunset later on.
Most of Norway is shut on a Sunday so it was difficult to find anywhere to eat, other than snacks from petrol stations although we did find a hotel who let us serve ourselves from their breakfast coffee machine. At one toilet stop, the side door of the minibus wouldn't open for some reason, so Alicea had to climb over the seats and bags to get out of the back door (the door started working again as soon as we drove off!) and at another Mark stepped out of the minibus only to disappear from view as he immediately slipped over on the ice.
The rest of the journey was uneventful with Mark and Rob sharing the driving as the rest of us dozed or stared at the sky noticing how the clouds that had been present for all the week so far had disappeared and that we could now see the stars. The outside temperature, at one point dropped to -11C. Fingers crossed for tonight!
We arrived in Tromso and mark took the minibus back to Hertz while the rest of us went up to our rooms. Shortly after we met up to wander into the town looking for somewhere to eat. We popped into a pub that served lots of different beers but although Mark was quite taken with it, the rest of us decided to find somewhere with a bit more of a choice. We then discovered a pub/café on the corner or the main street that had what looked like quite a nice menu. It was called the Meieriet café and storpub and we ordered a range of food from vegetable stir frys thru chicken burgers to veggie burgers.
Around now, Alicea mentioned seeing a notice for a trip out to see the Northern Lights. With the street lights in Tromso, it would be difficult to see them, so this trip took you out of town to where it was darker.
While we waited for the food to be delivered, Caroline went to a hotel across the road to see if she could find any details. She reappeared to tell us that the trip left in 45 minutes and cost about £45. We decided that this would probably be our best chance of seeing the Lights and checked to make sure our food would arrive in time. It did, and it was really tasty too.
We then made our way to where the coach would pick is up. Rob and Steve quickly went back to the hotel to pick up warm clothes and their cameras and then we boarded the coach and were off, keeping our fingers crossed that the Lights would appear.
The journey took about thirty minutes during which we travelled through a tunnel complex that included a couple of junctions with roundabouts!
Eventually we arrived at the wilderness centre outside the town to be greeted by baying huskies (this is where they run the sled rides from - we had tried to book, but they werebly running them as they hadn't had enough snow).
We were then shown into one of the Sammi huts that had a raging fire in it and given coffee. Then we were given warm one piece suits and boots and we went and sat outside to stare at the sky. It was really cold, but the suits kept us warm.
The night was beautiful, the sky was clear, the odd shooting star streaked across the sky and we were all keeping our fingers crossed beneath our thick gloves that the Northern Lights would appear.
Then a dim grey band began to appear across the sky, gradually getting brighter. At first I thought it was some kind of reflection of the lights from the town in the distance. But no, this was the beginning of the Aurora Borealis, the Northern Lights!
The band got brighter and took on a very light greenish hue. Sometimes it appeared as though it was hanging sheets, other times like grey/green clouds. I fiddled with my camera to try and get some photos of the phenomenom. Eventually, I got some really nice ones. The Lights went on for about an hour, occasionally changing shape and getting brighter and dimmer throughout.
Eventually it was time to return, so we handed back the warm clothes, all of us delighted that everything that we had planned for the holiday - the whales, snorkelling and the Northern Lights had all been successful.
Monday, December 31, 2007
Saturday, December 29, 2007
Up Close & Personal
We had another boat trip today, put on the smaller boat called the Zodiac. The highlight was to be the chance to snorkel with the whales if the conditions were right.
Last night there had been a few reservations about whether to go on the trip from a few people and Steve and Caroline had decided not to go after the really choppy conditions yesterday. On the way back to the room however, a conversation with one of the receptionists had changed her mind. Steve decided that he would rather have a "duvet day".
We met for breakfast and then made our way to be shoehorned into our drysuits. Getting your head in was the worst bit as the rubber seal around the neck was really tight.
That done, we were taken to the docks and boarded the boat, which was an open dingy type vessel that could carry about twenty.
The first thing we saw was a sea eagle that swooped down from about 250m to gather a fish that had been thrown from the boat. It was magnificent, so majestic and graceful. I could have gone home happy then. But no, our job was to find killer whales, and to jump in the water with them!
Next, we saw a grey seal - a rarity for these parts, apparently.
Then, shortly after, Rolf, the boat's captain announced that Orca were ahead and masks and snorkels were handed out.
The boat came closer to the pod, consisting of several adults and one or two younger ones and the call came to get into the water.
It wasn't as cold as I expected and I saw a flash of white below me for a second which may or may not have been a whale. We were helped back on the boat and there were tales of mixed success.
The boat followed the whales and once close enough, in we went again.
I saw nothing, and got out to be told that one had been right behind me!
Off we went again until we came upon more. This was certainly more successful than yesterday and we were so close to the whales that you got a real feel for their elegance and grace as they swam through the water.
The shout went up again to go into the water.
This time I had the fortune of being able to see three Orca as they swam past me and disappeared into the gloomy distance. I was elated! They were so graceful as they glided past me. Fantastic!
This pattern continued and at one point we were surrounded by whales. One surfaced near the boat and those in the water at that time said that as it dived beneath the boat it turned over on its back.
One time I was in the water I had a whale swimming beneath me for what seemed like ages. Unfortunately someone close to me knocked my snorkel out, forcing me to surface.
Interspersed with the whales, we got to see more sea eagles dive towards the water, picking off fish. All in all, the whole morning was superb.
The drysuits did their job and were incredibly bouyant, so much so that it was sometimes difficult to manouvre. They were also surprisingly warm and I was much warmer than I was yesterday.
Finally, it all had to end and the boat sped back to the dock. Once there a group of us decided that one further dip was required and we leapt from the dock into the water! This time, it was cold but very refreshing. Then it was back to the centre to be pulled out of the suits and to have a cup of coffee.
We then had a rest before meeting up for a chat and a drink, then a further rest before meeting up for dinner and viewing todays video before retiring for the evening.
Last night there had been a few reservations about whether to go on the trip from a few people and Steve and Caroline had decided not to go after the really choppy conditions yesterday. On the way back to the room however, a conversation with one of the receptionists had changed her mind. Steve decided that he would rather have a "duvet day".
We met for breakfast and then made our way to be shoehorned into our drysuits. Getting your head in was the worst bit as the rubber seal around the neck was really tight.
That done, we were taken to the docks and boarded the boat, which was an open dingy type vessel that could carry about twenty.
The first thing we saw was a sea eagle that swooped down from about 250m to gather a fish that had been thrown from the boat. It was magnificent, so majestic and graceful. I could have gone home happy then. But no, our job was to find killer whales, and to jump in the water with them!
Next, we saw a grey seal - a rarity for these parts, apparently.
Then, shortly after, Rolf, the boat's captain announced that Orca were ahead and masks and snorkels were handed out.
The boat came closer to the pod, consisting of several adults and one or two younger ones and the call came to get into the water.
It wasn't as cold as I expected and I saw a flash of white below me for a second which may or may not have been a whale. We were helped back on the boat and there were tales of mixed success.
The boat followed the whales and once close enough, in we went again.
I saw nothing, and got out to be told that one had been right behind me!
Off we went again until we came upon more. This was certainly more successful than yesterday and we were so close to the whales that you got a real feel for their elegance and grace as they swam through the water.
The shout went up again to go into the water.
This time I had the fortune of being able to see three Orca as they swam past me and disappeared into the gloomy distance. I was elated! They were so graceful as they glided past me. Fantastic!
This pattern continued and at one point we were surrounded by whales. One surfaced near the boat and those in the water at that time said that as it dived beneath the boat it turned over on its back.
One time I was in the water I had a whale swimming beneath me for what seemed like ages. Unfortunately someone close to me knocked my snorkel out, forcing me to surface.
Interspersed with the whales, we got to see more sea eagles dive towards the water, picking off fish. All in all, the whole morning was superb.
The drysuits did their job and were incredibly bouyant, so much so that it was sometimes difficult to manouvre. They were also surprisingly warm and I was much warmer than I was yesterday.
Finally, it all had to end and the boat sped back to the dock. Once there a group of us decided that one further dip was required and we leapt from the dock into the water! This time, it was cold but very refreshing. Then it was back to the centre to be pulled out of the suits and to have a cup of coffee.
We then had a rest before meeting up for a chat and a drink, then a further rest before meeting up for dinner and viewing todays video before retiring for the evening.
Friday, December 28, 2007
Thar She Blows!
Woke early to breakfast at 7.30am to be ready for our day out on the boat to search for Orcas (Killer Whales)
After breakfast we had a short lecture on the wildlife of the area and the Orca themselves. They come to this area to feed on the herring that swim into the fjords this time of the year. However, over the last couple of years, not so many of the herring have been coming into the fjord, preferring to stay outside, so not so many of the Orca are around in the local vicinity.
After the lecture we boarded a coach to the quayside and then the boat and headed out into the fjord. Each of us clothed with several layers topped with waterproofs.
It was very windy and cold and once we were out into the fjord the boat rocked around quite a lot. I stayed outside in an effort to stave off seasickness, which partly worked. During the really choppy bits I felt quite queasy.
Around lunchtime we were told that one of the other boats had spotted a pod of whales and we headed in that direction. Suddenly there they were, swimming quite fast a few hundred feet from the boat. The boat followed for a while until they disappeared into the distance. Then the boat headed for home arriving back as it got dark - about 2pm!
Once back at the centre we rested for a couple of hours before meeting up to have some food and play cards for a couple of hours.
After that we watched the video footage taken from the various boats during the day's excursions before retiring for the night.
Tomorrow we're going out on the smaller boat that can get closer to the whales. The wind is forecast to be less than today, so hopefully it won't be so choppy.
After breakfast we had a short lecture on the wildlife of the area and the Orca themselves. They come to this area to feed on the herring that swim into the fjords this time of the year. However, over the last couple of years, not so many of the herring have been coming into the fjord, preferring to stay outside, so not so many of the Orca are around in the local vicinity.
After the lecture we boarded a coach to the quayside and then the boat and headed out into the fjord. Each of us clothed with several layers topped with waterproofs.
It was very windy and cold and once we were out into the fjord the boat rocked around quite a lot. I stayed outside in an effort to stave off seasickness, which partly worked. During the really choppy bits I felt quite queasy.
Around lunchtime we were told that one of the other boats had spotted a pod of whales and we headed in that direction. Suddenly there they were, swimming quite fast a few hundred feet from the boat. The boat followed for a while until they disappeared into the distance. Then the boat headed for home arriving back as it got dark - about 2pm!
Once back at the centre we rested for a couple of hours before meeting up to have some food and play cards for a couple of hours.
After that we watched the video footage taken from the various boats during the day's excursions before retiring for the night.
Tomorrow we're going out on the smaller boat that can get closer to the whales. The wind is forecast to be less than today, so hopefully it won't be so choppy.
North into Darkness
We breakfasted at the hotel and then gathered in the foyer to make our way back to the train station so we could catch the train to the airport.
Once at the airport we checked in - Mark and Alicea had their fingerprints taken to use as boarding cards, the rest of us had "old fashioned" paper ones, not sure why - and we made our way through security to the gate, where the fingers worked and most of the paper didn't in the automatic barriers there.
The flight was pretty much on time and we were soon on our way to Evenes airport, inside the arctic circle.
It was about 3pm and still light when we left Oslo. From the window of the plane you could see a dark band on the horizon that got bigger as we flew closer to it. By the time we landed at around 3.45pm it was as dark as night!
We picked up our bags and then had a 45 minute wait for the car to arrive. Mark had booked a nine seater minibus that fitted us and our luggage perfectly.
Soon we were on our way to the Tourist Centre at Tysfjord where we were staying for the next few days.
As none of us had eaten anything since breakfast we stopped at a restaurant only to find it just closing. At 5.15pm!
We had a ferry to catch at 8pm about an hour's drive away so a decision was taken to drive to the nearest town (about 20 mins away) to find an eatery there. This we did and found pizza place and we made it to the ferry in perfect time.
The ferry journey was about an hour during which we played cards as the ferry rocked back and forth as it carried us across the fjord.
Once on the other side it was a five minute drive to the tourist centre.
The centre is really nice (I'm not sure about the proliferation of stuffed animals around the place) and the room is warm and comfy. The bathroom has underfloor heating, which is great.
After booking in and dropping everything in our rooms we all met in the bar for a drink. We then decided to retire to Steve's room to crack open the duty free. On the way, due to a collision between Rob and myself near the huge stuffed polar bear next to the entrance, I managed to drop my glass which smashed into a thousand pieces. After it was cleared up we met in Steve's room where we played cards (Anna is the current sh@thead) and drank until retiring for bed.
Once at the airport we checked in - Mark and Alicea had their fingerprints taken to use as boarding cards, the rest of us had "old fashioned" paper ones, not sure why - and we made our way through security to the gate, where the fingers worked and most of the paper didn't in the automatic barriers there.
The flight was pretty much on time and we were soon on our way to Evenes airport, inside the arctic circle.
It was about 3pm and still light when we left Oslo. From the window of the plane you could see a dark band on the horizon that got bigger as we flew closer to it. By the time we landed at around 3.45pm it was as dark as night!
We picked up our bags and then had a 45 minute wait for the car to arrive. Mark had booked a nine seater minibus that fitted us and our luggage perfectly.
Soon we were on our way to the Tourist Centre at Tysfjord where we were staying for the next few days.
As none of us had eaten anything since breakfast we stopped at a restaurant only to find it just closing. At 5.15pm!
We had a ferry to catch at 8pm about an hour's drive away so a decision was taken to drive to the nearest town (about 20 mins away) to find an eatery there. This we did and found pizza place and we made it to the ferry in perfect time.
The ferry journey was about an hour during which we played cards as the ferry rocked back and forth as it carried us across the fjord.
Once on the other side it was a five minute drive to the tourist centre.
The centre is really nice (I'm not sure about the proliferation of stuffed animals around the place) and the room is warm and comfy. The bathroom has underfloor heating, which is great.
After booking in and dropping everything in our rooms we all met in the bar for a drink. We then decided to retire to Steve's room to crack open the duty free. On the way, due to a collision between Rob and myself near the huge stuffed polar bear next to the entrance, I managed to drop my glass which smashed into a thousand pieces. After it was cleared up we met in Steve's room where we played cards (Anna is the current sh@thead) and drank until retiring for bed.
Thursday, December 27, 2007
Heading North
We stayed at the Stansted Radisson hotel on Christmas night and popped into Colchester on Boxing Day morning hoping to pick up a few bargains. However, not too many shops were open so we ended up going to Freeport in Braintree instead where we picked up a couple of bits.
Then it was back to the airport to drop the car off and meet the others.
Steve was already there and the others, Rob, Caroline, Mark and Anna turned up a little while after.
We queued for about an hour to check in and by the time we got through security, it was time to board which meant a very quick race through Duty Free to get some booze before heading to the gate.
When we got there we still had to wait for a bit, and eventually we boarded.
The flight was good and, although we took off late, we landed pretty much on time.
Once in the airport in Oslo we looked around for something to eat but everywhere was shut so we caught the train from the airport into Oslo and walked to the hotel.
After booking in, some of us popped to a local garage (the only place open) to get some snacks before retiring to bed.
Regards
Gary Nicklin
Global Professional Services
Please excuse the brevity of this message, it was sent from a BlackBerry.
Then it was back to the airport to drop the car off and meet the others.
Steve was already there and the others, Rob, Caroline, Mark and Anna turned up a little while after.
We queued for about an hour to check in and by the time we got through security, it was time to board which meant a very quick race through Duty Free to get some booze before heading to the gate.
When we got there we still had to wait for a bit, and eventually we boarded.
The flight was good and, although we took off late, we landed pretty much on time.
Once in the airport in Oslo we looked around for something to eat but everywhere was shut so we caught the train from the airport into Oslo and walked to the hotel.
After booking in, some of us popped to a local garage (the only place open) to get some snacks before retiring to bed.
Regards
Gary Nicklin
Global Professional Services
Please excuse the brevity of this message, it was sent from a BlackBerry.
Monday, October 29, 2007
Demuths, Bath
2 North Parade Passage, off Abbey Green,
Bath BA1 1NX
Demuths in Bath has a really good reputation among vegetarians however, a recent visit by a friend of mine was quite scathing so I decided to see for myself. The place itself is on two floors and I was shown to a table downstairs. I was the only one there for quite a while, during which time I skimmed through some sample copies of the restaurant's cookbooks that they have for sale, and they looked pretty good, with some nice recipes.
The menu I was presented with wasn't overly inspiring, there were roughly half a dozen choices on both starters and mains menus, and also an appetisers menu with a similar amount of options. I forewent the appetisers and chose the Beetroot and Potato Patties from the starters and an Ethiopean Platter from the mains menu.
The starters menu was quite varied, however the mains contained a curry and the Ethiopian Platter (essentially another curry) a risotto, and a nut roast. As curries, risottos and nut roasts are quite often the "vegetarian choice" on a standard restaurant menu, I didn't think they showed the culinary possibilities that vegetarian food can attain no matter how good they might be.
The Beetroot Patties were three in number and were quite nicely presented spread with pea puree and accomanied by a raita and a few salad leaves. They were nicely spiced and the pea puree was good, but there was little or no beetroot flavour, which was a little disappointing. If the sweet beetroot flavour had been there, this would've been a splendid little dish. However, as it was the only real clue to the presence of the beetroot was the colour of the patties.
The Ethiopean Platter consisted of two different dhals (yellow split pea and red lentil and bean), spiced spinach and potato, and bean and carrot curry served on an pancake, Each of the individual ingredients were fine in themselves, but nothing special. However, the pancake was tasteless and, when eaten in combination with any of the other parts of the dish, somehow had the power to render them equally tasteless which was a touch weird.
For dessert I had Red Wine Poached Pears served with Blackberries and a Honey Labne. Again the presentation was very well done and it tasted really nice. The dish was sprinkled with honeycomb and it complemented the pears really well.
The service was quick and efficient, but not particularly personal. The prices seem to me to be quite high - £6 for a starter and £14 for a main course is a bit steep for this kind of fayre. My three course meal with a coke and a water came to over £35, which is very high.
Would I go back? Probably not. The food was okay, but nothing special, and it was expensive. It is nice to be able to be given a menu in a restaurant where I can eat everything on it, however I'd much rather have a smaller choice of really imaginative and tasty food than a dozen "so-so" items.
I have had some fabulous meals in vegetarian restaurants, Terre a Terre and Il Margutta in Rome, for example, but the majority of the best meals I've had have been in restaurants where the non-veggie meals have been top quality too, like Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons or The Lanesborough.
I guess, in the end, it all comes down to the skill and imagination (and attitude) of the chefs no matter what kind of restaurant they are in.
Sunday, October 14, 2007
Last day in Italy
We woke early and finished packing before going down to meet the taxi to the airport.
The airport is very close to Pisa and within ten minutes, we had arrived. We had a coffee and a croissant while waiting for the check in desk for Alicea's flight to open. Once she had checked in and joined the queue for departures we said our goodbyes, and I caught the bus back to the hotel. On the way, I bought a ticket for the Leaning Tower and the surrounding buildings.
I went up the tower (more steps!) and popped back to the hotel to check out before looking around the baptistry and cathedral.
I then went to find somewhere for lunch stopping on the way to watch as artist creating a picture using spray can paints. It was fascinating.
I then came across a huge market that spanned several streets selling everything from furniture to soap to records to pottery.
After an hour walking around that, I went to a restaurant in one of the piazzas near the Leaning Tower for lunch. The food was fine but the service was awful, I'm not sure whether it was because I was on my own - I wasn't even given any bread! So, I left no tip.
From there I went to look around the cemetery building that is part of the Leaning Tower complex. I'm sure that in its heyday it was fab, but as a museum, it lacks a certain something. It could be that virtislly none of the exhibits are labelled and those that are have label that read "square sarcophogus, 4th Century" or similar, and that's the extent of the information you get!
From there, I wandered back to the hotel to get my bags, picking up an ice cream on the way and caught the bus to the airport.
The plane was about 15 mins late taking off, but landed on time.
The airport is very close to Pisa and within ten minutes, we had arrived. We had a coffee and a croissant while waiting for the check in desk for Alicea's flight to open. Once she had checked in and joined the queue for departures we said our goodbyes, and I caught the bus back to the hotel. On the way, I bought a ticket for the Leaning Tower and the surrounding buildings.
I went up the tower (more steps!) and popped back to the hotel to check out before looking around the baptistry and cathedral.
I then went to find somewhere for lunch stopping on the way to watch as artist creating a picture using spray can paints. It was fascinating.
I then came across a huge market that spanned several streets selling everything from furniture to soap to records to pottery.
After an hour walking around that, I went to a restaurant in one of the piazzas near the Leaning Tower for lunch. The food was fine but the service was awful, I'm not sure whether it was because I was on my own - I wasn't even given any bread! So, I left no tip.
From there I went to look around the cemetery building that is part of the Leaning Tower complex. I'm sure that in its heyday it was fab, but as a museum, it lacks a certain something. It could be that virtislly none of the exhibits are labelled and those that are have label that read "square sarcophogus, 4th Century" or similar, and that's the extent of the information you get!
From there, I wandered back to the hotel to get my bags, picking up an ice cream on the way and caught the bus to the airport.
The plane was about 15 mins late taking off, but landed on time.
Saturday, October 13, 2007
Goodbye Cinque Terre
Today we return to Pisa ready for the return to the UK (for me) and the USA (for Alicea). But before we left we took one more trip to Monterosso where we say on the beach for a couple of hours and the went for lunch at the place where Alicea enjoyed her salmon and dill the other night.
Unfortunately, that particular dish was unavailable so she had smoked salmon which wasn't as nice. We both then had a pesto dish before returning back to the hotel to await our lift, with our bags, to the station.
The train was fairly on time and we arrived in Pisa around 7.20pm. With the help of one of the locals we caught a bus to the Campo dei Miracoli and then walked to the hotel.
Once we had dropped our stuff off we went to one of the restaurants near the Leaning Tower (having learnt our lesson last week). We ended up sitting next to an Australian couple who were quite loud and stereotypical (at least to begin with) and Alicea spoke very quietly so that they didn't realise she was Australian too and begin talking to her!
Once we had finished eating, we returned to the hotel and booked a taxi to take Alicea to the airport tomorrow morning.
Unfortunately, that particular dish was unavailable so she had smoked salmon which wasn't as nice. We both then had a pesto dish before returning back to the hotel to await our lift, with our bags, to the station.
The train was fairly on time and we arrived in Pisa around 7.20pm. With the help of one of the locals we caught a bus to the Campo dei Miracoli and then walked to the hotel.
Once we had dropped our stuff off we went to one of the restaurants near the Leaning Tower (having learnt our lesson last week). We ended up sitting next to an Australian couple who were quite loud and stereotypical (at least to begin with) and Alicea spoke very quietly so that they didn't realise she was Australian too and begin talking to her!
Once we had finished eating, we returned to the hotel and booked a taxi to take Alicea to the airport tomorrow morning.
Friday, October 12, 2007
An aborted swim...
We arrived at Bonasollo station to catch the train to Monterosso and then onto Riomaggiore.
I'm not sure why there is a ticket office at Bonosolla station as it is never open, even when it is supposed to be! In fact someone has scribbled "if we feel like it" above the opening times. So, we had to buy a bottle of water from the bar next to the station to get enough change for the only one of the three ticket machines that was working.
Once in Monterosso, we bought a Cinque Terre day pass and our ticket for Pisa tomorrow and also rang the dive people to book ourselves in.
Then we caught the next train to Riomaggiore.
Once there we walked to Manorola along the Via Dell Amore and had our piccy taken on the kissing seat... What romantic fools we are!
We then had lunch in Manorola before walking back to Riomaggiore to go for the dive.
We were all kitted up and followed the guy who was leading us out into the harbour. Once I began to go under the water my mask began to fill with water - my moustache was stopping the mask from getting an airtight seal - and try as I might I couldn't stop it. In the end I have it up as a bad job and left Alicea with the instructor while I went and got changed.
She was gone for about forty five minutes and said that she was a little disappointed as what she saw was pretty much what you could see snorkeling.
Once she had got changed we caught the train to Vernazza where we had dinner at Gianni Franzi's before ruturning to the hotel.
I'm not sure why there is a ticket office at Bonosolla station as it is never open, even when it is supposed to be! In fact someone has scribbled "if we feel like it" above the opening times. So, we had to buy a bottle of water from the bar next to the station to get enough change for the only one of the three ticket machines that was working.
Once in Monterosso, we bought a Cinque Terre day pass and our ticket for Pisa tomorrow and also rang the dive people to book ourselves in.
Then we caught the next train to Riomaggiore.
Once there we walked to Manorola along the Via Dell Amore and had our piccy taken on the kissing seat... What romantic fools we are!
We then had lunch in Manorola before walking back to Riomaggiore to go for the dive.
We were all kitted up and followed the guy who was leading us out into the harbour. Once I began to go under the water my mask began to fill with water - my moustache was stopping the mask from getting an airtight seal - and try as I might I couldn't stop it. In the end I have it up as a bad job and left Alicea with the instructor while I went and got changed.
She was gone for about forty five minutes and said that she was a little disappointed as what she saw was pretty much what you could see snorkeling.
Once she had got changed we caught the train to Vernazza where we had dinner at Gianni Franzi's before ruturning to the hotel.
A walk in the dark
Last night we went into Monterosso for dinner at one of the restaurants on the front. We say out on the balcony overlooking the sea which was lovely.
After that we caught the train back to Bonassola and walked back to the hotel up a long line of steps. Luckily we had bought a torch earlier as some of the way was quite dark.
Today, we are hoping to go diving, which should be good and finishing our day with a meal in Vernazza. That's the plan anyway.
After that we caught the train back to Bonassola and walked back to the hotel up a long line of steps. Luckily we had bought a torch earlier as some of the way was quite dark.
Today, we are hoping to go diving, which should be good and finishing our day with a meal in Vernazza. That's the plan anyway.
Thursday, October 11, 2007
More walking
Last night's dinner was okay, but not up to the standard of the food that we've been eating lately.
Once the dinner was over, we retired to bed. There were no church bells this time, but the bed creaked so much, that every time one of us moved, it woke the other one up!
This morning we walked to Levanto, the next town for lunch (about 5km) and then walked back again, taking a slightly different route. Levanto was really quiet compared to the other places we visited, I guess that not being one of the CT villages really takes its toll.
Our knees are aching again and Alicea bought a couple of sticks to help when walking over the hilly bits. The one that she got me for my birthday has been great and has really helped during the tougher stretches of the walks.
It's quite a walk from the hotel here in Bonasolla to the station, and there are no taxis, so if we want to go anywhere else to eat its quite a trek. We've tried ringing a few other hotels in the Cinque Terre villages, but they're all fully booked, so it looks like we are stuck here for the next couple of days.
Once the dinner was over, we retired to bed. There were no church bells this time, but the bed creaked so much, that every time one of us moved, it woke the other one up!
This morning we walked to Levanto, the next town for lunch (about 5km) and then walked back again, taking a slightly different route. Levanto was really quiet compared to the other places we visited, I guess that not being one of the CT villages really takes its toll.
Our knees are aching again and Alicea bought a couple of sticks to help when walking over the hilly bits. The one that she got me for my birthday has been great and has really helped during the tougher stretches of the walks.
It's quite a walk from the hotel here in Bonasolla to the station, and there are no taxis, so if we want to go anywhere else to eat its quite a trek. We've tried ringing a few other hotels in the Cinque Terre villages, but they're all fully booked, so it looks like we are stuck here for the next couple of days.
Wednesday, October 10, 2007
A new hotel
Last night when we got back to the hotel after dinner we started to pack, ready for today's change of hotels.
I went to get all my bits out of the room safe but it wouldn't open. Luckily, this morning the one of the people that run the hotel came along and opened it for me.
After leaving our bags to be transported to the hotel in Bonassola where we are staying for the rest of the holiday, we said our goodbyes and took a boat to Porto Venere, a town at the lower end of the Cinque Terre peninsula and had a wander around for a few hours.
It's another pretty town with stepped streets and a large harbour. Overlooking the town is a 12th century church.
After lunch we caught the boat back to Monterosso and then boarded a train for the two stops to Bonassola. After asking several people where the hotel was, including a workman who beckoned us over to talk to his English speaking employer we finally arrived, only to be told that they would have given us a lift from the station if we had rung!
The hotel is on a hill overlooking the town, the view is beautiful, but its not very convenient for getting anywhere.
Our bags had arrived okay, and we were booked in for dinner. Unfortunately the set menu wasn't really to our taste so we've ended up with a pasta dish and a salad.
The room itself is okay, but small. It sounds like we were bumped out of a better room (with a balcony) by some guests that arrived earlier. It's not as nice as the hotel in Monterosso which was really nice and the service was superb!
Still, it might be one of those places that grows on you...
I went to get all my bits out of the room safe but it wouldn't open. Luckily, this morning the one of the people that run the hotel came along and opened it for me.
After leaving our bags to be transported to the hotel in Bonassola where we are staying for the rest of the holiday, we said our goodbyes and took a boat to Porto Venere, a town at the lower end of the Cinque Terre peninsula and had a wander around for a few hours.
It's another pretty town with stepped streets and a large harbour. Overlooking the town is a 12th century church.
After lunch we caught the boat back to Monterosso and then boarded a train for the two stops to Bonassola. After asking several people where the hotel was, including a workman who beckoned us over to talk to his English speaking employer we finally arrived, only to be told that they would have given us a lift from the station if we had rung!
The hotel is on a hill overlooking the town, the view is beautiful, but its not very convenient for getting anywhere.
Our bags had arrived okay, and we were booked in for dinner. Unfortunately the set menu wasn't really to our taste so we've ended up with a pasta dish and a salad.
The room itself is okay, but small. It sounds like we were bumped out of a better room (with a balcony) by some guests that arrived earlier. It's not as nice as the hotel in Monterosso which was really nice and the service was superb!
Still, it might be one of those places that grows on you...
Tuesday, October 09, 2007
Return to Riomaggiore
This morning we caught the train down to Riomaggiore so we could have a look at the village. We'd started our walk from here yesterday but hadn't walked up from the station to the village.
It's quite a pretty little place with a single road leading down to the station and marina. However, there isn't an awful lot to see, so we caught the train back to Monterosso and were back for lunch.
The afternoon was spent checking the boat times for our trip tomorrow to Portovenere and sitting in a café on the seafront.
It's quite a pretty little place with a single road leading down to the station and marina. However, there isn't an awful lot to see, so we caught the train back to Monterosso and were back for lunch.
The afternoon was spent checking the boat times for our trip tomorrow to Portovenere and sitting in a café on the seafront.
An unexpected journey
We decided to go to Vernazza for the evening to eat, so met up at the station to catch the train.
The train came in on time, so we boarded and then were somewhat bemused as the train passed all the local stations without stopping.
We alighted at Le Spezia and jumped on a train that was heading in the opposite direction. This one stopped in Vernazza so we got off, finishing a half hour journey that should have taken five minutes.
We headed for the main piazza which was next to the harbour and to a restaurant that was recommended in one of our guide books. It was pretty good and served a very nice ravioli in walnut sauce. After the meal we sat on the harbour for a while before catching the train back, this time without any problems.
The train came in on time, so we boarded and then were somewhat bemused as the train passed all the local stations without stopping.
We alighted at Le Spezia and jumped on a train that was heading in the opposite direction. This one stopped in Vernazza so we got off, finishing a half hour journey that should have taken five minutes.
We headed for the main piazza which was next to the harbour and to a restaurant that was recommended in one of our guide books. It was pretty good and served a very nice ravioli in walnut sauce. After the meal we sat on the harbour for a while before catching the train back, this time without any problems.
Monday, October 08, 2007
Facts
I forgot to mention, the walk from Riomaggiore to Monterosso is rougly 15km and it took us about six hours.
Cinque Terre Walk
The Cinque Terre consists of five villages along the Ligurian coastline in northwest Italy.
One of the attractions is that you can walk between them. So, that was today's quest.
We met Steve at Monterosso station at 9.30am and caught the train to Riomaggiore the southen most of the CT villages where our walk was to begin.
The first part of the walk, to Manarola, is along a man made coastal path and is an easy stroll, lulling you into a false sense of security.
For the next section, to Corniglia, our guide book gave us the choice of a route through the hills or an easier coastal route. Still suffering a few aches from yesterday's trek we decided on the coastal route, which was okay, however it ended with a climb of 382 steps!
After some refreshment we struckout for Vernazza where we planned to have lunch. The path was very narrow in places and there were many, many steps. Eventually, we reached the village and found the restaurant that had been recommended to me for its tomato sauce. It was very nice.
Once we had rested we began the final part of the walk, to Monterosso. Boy was it hard. The start of it was mostly steps going up, all very uneven, and extremely narrow cliff edge paths with no handrails. The descent into Monterosso was down what seemed to be thousands of uneven steps and by now my knees and hips were theatening to go on strike. Eventually we arrived back in Monterosso.
The walk was very hard, but the views were spectacular.
Once back in our 'home' village we then went for a much needed and much dreamed about (during the walk) dip in the sea, which was great.
We're planning to take the train back to one of the villages tonight for dinner, as it's Steve's last day tomorrow.
One of the attractions is that you can walk between them. So, that was today's quest.
We met Steve at Monterosso station at 9.30am and caught the train to Riomaggiore the southen most of the CT villages where our walk was to begin.
The first part of the walk, to Manarola, is along a man made coastal path and is an easy stroll, lulling you into a false sense of security.
For the next section, to Corniglia, our guide book gave us the choice of a route through the hills or an easier coastal route. Still suffering a few aches from yesterday's trek we decided on the coastal route, which was okay, however it ended with a climb of 382 steps!
After some refreshment we struckout for Vernazza where we planned to have lunch. The path was very narrow in places and there were many, many steps. Eventually, we reached the village and found the restaurant that had been recommended to me for its tomato sauce. It was very nice.
Once we had rested we began the final part of the walk, to Monterosso. Boy was it hard. The start of it was mostly steps going up, all very uneven, and extremely narrow cliff edge paths with no handrails. The descent into Monterosso was down what seemed to be thousands of uneven steps and by now my knees and hips were theatening to go on strike. Eventually we arrived back in Monterosso.
The walk was very hard, but the views were spectacular.
Once back in our 'home' village we then went for a much needed and much dreamed about (during the walk) dip in the sea, which was great.
We're planning to take the train back to one of the villages tonight for dinner, as it's Steve's last day tomorrow.
A long walk...
I slept fitfully mostly due to the local church clock striking every half hour.
We made sure we had a largish breakfast before leaving for the first of our walks.
The walk was 10km long and went through the hills and forests that surround Monterosso. It was very pretty with some amazing views but very hard as some of the climbs were very steep and very long. We also had to change the route slightly after being chased by two dogs! By the time we both arrived back, about four hours later, our legs really ached. And we've an even longer one tomorrow...
We made sure we had a largish breakfast before leaving for the first of our walks.
The walk was 10km long and went through the hills and forests that surround Monterosso. It was very pretty with some amazing views but very hard as some of the climbs were very steep and very long. We also had to change the route slightly after being chased by two dogs! By the time we both arrived back, about four hours later, our legs really ached. And we've an even longer one tomorrow...
Sunday, October 07, 2007
The First of the Cinque Terre
We left the hotel and its surly breakfast staff around 9am and caught a bus to the train station, using my pidgeon Italian to get directions to the bus stop.
We had about an hour to wait for the train, however it was travelling straight through to Monterosso without us having to change. The trip was straightforeward except that we had forgotten to stamp our tickets and got fined €5. Barely a day in Italy and already we're criminals!
Once we arrived we made our way to the Hotel Marina. The hotel is really nice, in the old town and a stones throw from everything.
After dropping our bags we wandered around the town looking for somewhere to eat. It's pretty crowded and although our first choice was full we found another place a few doors up that looked nice. I had some really nice peccorino with honey and walnuta followed by troffie pasta with pesto (Liguria is where pesto was invented) and Alicea had a seafood platter that looked as though it had been tipped out of a fisherman's net.
From there we wandered around the town a little more before retiring to the hotel for a siesta. We've a busy few days coming up so we thought we'd get a rest while we could.
Steve SMS'd us to tell us held arrived and to arrange to meet up for dinner.
Around 7pm we met up with Steve and went for a drink. While we were there a huge thunderstorm hit the town and the rain poured down. We then went to a restaurant where we "mushroomed out" by ordering just about every mushroom course on the menu! The waitress brought out a large basket of fresh porcini to show us what we would be having!
Once we had finished, we retired to our respective hotels, Alicea and I to prepare for our walk tomorrow, Steve to prepare for his "duvet day"!
Regards,
Gary Nicklin
Please excuse the short message - it was sent from a Blackberry handheld.
Intuit Real Estate Solutions
Insight. Innovation. Impact.
We had about an hour to wait for the train, however it was travelling straight through to Monterosso without us having to change. The trip was straightforeward except that we had forgotten to stamp our tickets and got fined €5. Barely a day in Italy and already we're criminals!
Once we arrived we made our way to the Hotel Marina. The hotel is really nice, in the old town and a stones throw from everything.
After dropping our bags we wandered around the town looking for somewhere to eat. It's pretty crowded and although our first choice was full we found another place a few doors up that looked nice. I had some really nice peccorino with honey and walnuta followed by troffie pasta with pesto (Liguria is where pesto was invented) and Alicea had a seafood platter that looked as though it had been tipped out of a fisherman's net.
From there we wandered around the town a little more before retiring to the hotel for a siesta. We've a busy few days coming up so we thought we'd get a rest while we could.
Steve SMS'd us to tell us held arrived and to arrange to meet up for dinner.
Around 7pm we met up with Steve and went for a drink. While we were there a huge thunderstorm hit the town and the rain poured down. We then went to a restaurant where we "mushroomed out" by ordering just about every mushroom course on the menu! The waitress brought out a large basket of fresh porcini to show us what we would be having!
Once we had finished, we retired to our respective hotels, Alicea and I to prepare for our walk tomorrow, Steve to prepare for his "duvet day"!
Regards,
Gary Nicklin
Please excuse the short message - it was sent from a Blackberry handheld.
Intuit Real Estate Solutions
Insight. Innovation. Impact.
Saturday, October 06, 2007
To Pisa
The flight was uneventful apart from the food service being postponed due to someone fainting a few rows behind us. Once the poor lady had been revived everything was back to normal and the flight arrived in Pisa pretty much on time.
We joined a queue for a taxi and eventually we got one to take us to the hotel. The Grand Hotel Duomo is a stone's throw from the Leaning Tower so, after dumping our bags we went for a walk.
The complex where the tower stands is very impressive and when I'm back here next weekend, I'll take the opportunity to go around it properly.
From there we took a wander around looking for somewhere to eat. We found a couple of places, then went to a bar to wait for the restaurants to open.
We picked a restaurant that was in the backstreets away from the touristy places figuring that it may have more authentic and regional food to those catering for the masses. However, as there was no menu outside we weren't sure what it would be like.
I told the waitress that I was vegetarian and we ordered our food. We started with crostini which were drenched with a very strong olive oil. Alicea then had a
Prawn risotto and I ended up with what appeared to be pieces of pancake covered, once again, in the same olive oil. To follow that we then had a sformati, which I was keen to try as I have made it on a couple of courses, which turned out to be a sort of cheese souffle and nothing like the dish I was expecting. Still, at least the wine was nice.
From there we went back to the hotel.
We joined a queue for a taxi and eventually we got one to take us to the hotel. The Grand Hotel Duomo is a stone's throw from the Leaning Tower so, after dumping our bags we went for a walk.
The complex where the tower stands is very impressive and when I'm back here next weekend, I'll take the opportunity to go around it properly.
From there we took a wander around looking for somewhere to eat. We found a couple of places, then went to a bar to wait for the restaurants to open.
We picked a restaurant that was in the backstreets away from the touristy places figuring that it may have more authentic and regional food to those catering for the masses. However, as there was no menu outside we weren't sure what it would be like.
I told the waitress that I was vegetarian and we ordered our food. We started with crostini which were drenched with a very strong olive oil. Alicea then had a
Prawn risotto and I ended up with what appeared to be pieces of pancake covered, once again, in the same olive oil. To follow that we then had a sformati, which I was keen to try as I have made it on a couple of courses, which turned out to be a sort of cheese souffle and nothing like the dish I was expecting. Still, at least the wine was nice.
From there we went back to the hotel.
Saturday, June 02, 2007
Last Supper
We all met up early evening to go to ***** for some wine tasting. We had a tour around the cellars before trying the olive oil and the wine that the estate produces. We tried the San Geovase and the Cabernet Sauvignon. Both were nice but I preferred the SG.
The lady conducting the tasting was very interesting. She told us of the process that they have to go through to be allowed to call their wines 'Chianti'.
After buying a couple of bottles and some oil we left to go to the ****** where we were to eat.
The restaurant has an amazing view across the valley. We ordered a selection of antipasti followed by a different main course for everyone. That way everyone got to try a selection of all the dishes. It was all very nice, but the place was busy, so the service was slightly on the slow side. But that didn't spoil the evening, we all had a good time and said our goodbyes to Shilpa at the end of it.
I then returned to my appartment, wishing Linda well as she was leaving early in the morning.
It's been a great week, I've seen some wonderful places, met some really nice people and cooked and eaten some great food.
Regards,
Gary Nicklin
Please excuse the short message - it was sent from a Blackberry handheld.
The lady conducting the tasting was very interesting. She told us of the process that they have to go through to be allowed to call their wines 'Chianti'.
After buying a couple of bottles and some oil we left to go to the ****** where we were to eat.
The restaurant has an amazing view across the valley. We ordered a selection of antipasti followed by a different main course for everyone. That way everyone got to try a selection of all the dishes. It was all very nice, but the place was busy, so the service was slightly on the slow side. But that didn't spoil the evening, we all had a good time and said our goodbyes to Shilpa at the end of it.
I then returned to my appartment, wishing Linda well as she was leaving early in the morning.
It's been a great week, I've seen some wonderful places, met some really nice people and cooked and eaten some great food.
Regards,
Gary Nicklin
Please excuse the short message - it was sent from a Blackberry handheld.
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